Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Oxford update: Solstice Edition

So with a full evening and day off I managed to get some more work in before Christmas after all.

I managed to find all the buttons I needed, then after several times wresting them into the buttonholes and tearing up my fingers and nails with the uneven edges (and having one of them break off at the shank) I decided I couldn't stand those buttons and went out to seek more. So I put half of the new ones on and will pick up the other half tomorrow between a split shift at work.

Other than that I finished trimming the cape, added the filigrees, made a collar, turned out the cape with the lining and attached the collar and ties. The only thing left is to hem the lining to the cape. Because I allowed a little ease in the lining so it wouldn't pull and interfere with the drape of the cape I didn't just bag out that edge with the rest. The idea will be to hang the cape on a form and pin the lining to the cape where it wants to hang and where it won't pull in weird directions once it's on me. Problem: I don't have a form yet. Hopeful solution: I asked for a form for Christmas and I will hopefully hopefully hopefully get it. Then I can proceed with hemming the cape and that will be completed.

With the exception of a few last closures the slops are also finished. And with the exception of the missing buttons the doublet is also done. Tonight I was able to put on all three (nearly)completed pieces and get a great preview of the finished product:

Annnd again, my man faces don't photograph well apparently. But nevermind that for now, supposedly I will be getting man-lessons from my brother later...

So that's where I am as we wrap up the solstice. Unfortunately it's the official start of winter, fortunately it means every day from here out will get progressively longer! Aside from the aforementioned finishing items the next step in completing the outfit will be the sleeves. I have to order some flat back crystals and rim settings to decorate the sleeves but I can start putting the trim down once I pattern and cut the pieces. I'm quite excited at the progress so far and was ecstatic to be able to get myself into the gear tonight. Corset and all even after a big meal! Movement is great. I can sit, gingerly but mostly without fear. Kneeling, kicking, dancing, bending over a reasonable amount; all good. I can't imagine having junk though... I don't know where it would go. The slops are quite personal if you know what I mean. Everything is perfectly fit that way and I don't even need to make lacing holes and ties to tie the doublet to the slops. It all just stays put.

Anyway enough blathering on. Next update will probably be showing off any and all the goodies I get for Christmas. Should be a good haul considering the majority of my list was comprised of sewing or costuming tools. Super crossing my fingers for Gingher pinking shears and that dress form! Thanks for tuning in and Happy Solstice, Merry Christmas, and/or Happy Holidays!

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Collar, Cape and more!

Quite a bit more done!
With the exception of several more buttons to buy (have to hit all the Joann's in a 100 mile radius to find them all...) and sew on, the doublet is done. Did a fun chevron job on the collar and bound the armholes.

Moving on next to the cape... I picked up the velvet and a couple more trims for it and got all the trim down tonight.

 The cape is a little over 180 degrees. 240 to be exact, with layered trim radials and cord fringe along the bottom edge. At the end of each radial there will be some sort of filigree or rosette... we'll see what I can find...

Well I can't believe Christmas is next week already! Not sure when I'll get to working on it more before then but we'll see what we can manage... So excited for how it's looking so far!

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Leaps and Bounds!

Wow! So I've been a little errant in my updating. I finished working on Friday with just enough time to pack up to travel to Madison. I thought I would blog when I got to the hotel that night but alas, my photos wouldn't upload on that connection. Had a whole day off today so I got a lot done from Friday and today.

With the exception of some finishing details the slops are DONE!

I made a chevroned codpiece to go with it that I'm quite pleased with. I modified a pattern from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion for it:

*Note: I removed the tassel. It was a fun idea but dare I say it, a little TOO much... it just stuck out like a -- well you know.

Friday I spent putting the slops together and today I finished them. Friday also saw me finishing the trim on the doublet and today I put the epaulettes and piccadils on and bagged out the doublet with the lining. So I have a nearly wearable doublet!
There are a whopping four layers in the doublet. There's the silk outer that was flatlined to a layer of canvas before the trim went on and there the cotton lining also flatlined to another layer of canvas which has boning channels. It's very stiff which is perfect! It's also very tight. I need to cut down the underarms just a bit and drape&make a collar. I started working buttonholes but those will be finished another night.  With my corset on underneath I was able to give it a trial put-on.
(That's my serious man-face lol!)

It's quite snug fitting that's absolutely necessary in the slops to ensure ease of movement. I can kneel, reverance, walk, kick. I forgot to try sitting but who needs to do that anyway, we're at court on progress here folks! No time to sit around lazy-like. No really though I'll have to go back and double check that, but I'm sure if I can do everything else I should manage a perch at the least.

So that's about where I'm at. Once the doublet is finished I still have sleeves and cape to tackle. So we've still got a ways to go but it sure feels good trying something on.

And because they're just too darn cute... here's some more Chewi and Kimora:

Thanks for checking in!

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Trimming the Earl

Very productive night tonight! Official first blood drawn on the project. Sweat is a given but hopefully the tears part will only be tears of happiness upon its completion. Since I got all the panes cut and put together last night I was able to slap the edge trimming on those first thing.
Before Trim:
 After Trim^v
After that I took to the doublet. I had the black and gold striped fabric cut the other day so I cut some canvas for an interlining and flatlined one layer to the black. That gave the fabric enough weight to then lay the trim down without the trim making the fabric pucker or stretch. There will actually be two layers of trim but I only tackled the first layer tonight.

Tomorrow I think I'll put down the next layer which will be the gold cord (used on the panes and piccadils) down the center of that ribbon. Somewhat like so:
Too much gold??? Naaaahhhh....

I'm really getting excited! It's coming together much quicker than I anticipated. There's still lots and lots to do and very very far to go yet but I'm pleasantly surprised thus far. Pleasantly surprised indeed.